If you're searching for "leeboy 685 grader for sale" or checking out the leeboy 695 motor grader, you're probably in the market for reliable grading equipment. But let me pause for a second: if you stumbled here looking for a garbage truck or a Honda generator, you're in the wrong aisle. And if you're wondering whether you're smarter than a 5th grader—stick around, I'll give you a quick trivia at the end. But for everyone else, let's talk about what actually matters when buying a used motor grader.
I'm a quality compliance manager at a construction equipment company. I review every motor grader and asphalt paver before it reaches customers—roughly 200 units a year. In Q1 2024 alone, I rejected about 8% of first deliveries due to spec mismatches. One deal that went sideways cost us a $22,000 redo and delayed the launch by two weeks. So I've learned a few things about what to check before you sign the paperwork.
This checklist is for contractors, road builders, and dealers who are considering a Leeboy 685 or 695 grader. It's based on real inspection notes I've taken over the past four years. Follow these five steps, and you'll catch the most common (and expensive) problems.
Step 1: Run a Visual + Frame Geometry Check
It's tempting to think you can just look at the paint and call it good. But the frame—especially on a used grader—tells the real story. Walk around the machine and look for:
- Cracks or weld repairs on the main frame, especially near the articulation joint. I saw a Leeboy 685 last year where a previous owner had welded a frame crack without proper heat treatment. The repair looked fine, but the metal had micro-fractures that showed up after 200 hours.
- Uneven tire wear – that's a sign of misaligned axles or worn kingpins. On a 695 motor grader, front tire scrub over 1/4 inch can indicate a bent frame.
- Oil leaks around the hydraulic cylinders and final drives. A few drips are normal; a steady weep is a red flag. The cost to rebuild a Leeboy 695's steering cylinder? About $1,800 if you use OEM parts. I've seen dealers try to hide leaks by degreasing the machine before a showing.
One trick I use: bring a tape measure and check the wheelbase on both sides. On a 685 grader (wheelbase roughly 20 feet), a difference of more than 1/2 inch suggests frame damage. That's not always a deal-breaker, but it'll affect blade accuracy.
Step 2: Verify Engine Health and Emissions Compliance
The engine is the heart, and on a 695 motor grader you're looking at a Cummins QSB6.7 (around 210–215 horsepower—actually, the latest spec sheet shows 215 hp at 2,200 rpm). Don't skip the cold start test.
Here's what I do:
- Check for blue smoke on startup – that's oil burning, hinting at worn rings or valve guides.
- Let it idle for 5 minutes. Listen for knocking or uneven idle. A Leeboy engine should settle to a steady 700–750 rpm warm.
- Review the DEF system (for Tier 4 Final models). If the DEF gauge is low or the dashboard shows a “derate” warning, you're looking at a $2,500–$4,000 repair. In 2023, I rejected a machine because the DEF tank had crystallized due to old fluid—the seller said it was “just a sensor issue.” It wasn't.
If you're buying a pre-2015 model (Tier 3 or earlier), you won't have DEF, but you'll need to verify local emission rules. As of January 2025, many states still allow Tier 3 graders on non-federal projects, but check with your local DOT.
Step 3: Test the Hydraulics Under Load
Most buyers just cycle the blade a few times and call it good. That's a mistake. Hydraulic issues are the most common hidden cost on used Leeboy graders.
I always run the “three-position leak test”:
- Raise the blade fully, shut off the engine, and watch for drift. If the blade drops more than 2 inches in 5 minutes, you've got cylinder bypass.
- Operate the blade tilt at full engine RPM. Listen for cavitation (a whine or vibration). That usually means low fluid or a clogged filter.
- Check the hydraulic oil for color and smell. Milky oil means water contamination; burnt smell means overheating. The recommended fluid for Leeboy machines is Mobil DTE 26 or equivalent (ISO VG 68). If the seller used a cheaper substitute, plan a flush.
A buddy of mine saved $4,000 by buying a 685 grader with a “minor leak” and thought he got a steal. He ended up spending $9,600 on a new main pump and two cylinders within six months. That's the kind of penny-wise, pound-foolish mistake I see all the time.
Step 4: Inspect the Moldboard and Circle Assembly
The moldboard (the blade) is where the work happens. On a Leeboy 695, the standard blade is 14 feet long with a 24-inch height. Look for:
- Uneven wear – if the blade is dished (curved more in the center), it won't cut a flat grade. Replacement blades are about $1,200, but if the moldboard itself is warped, you're looking at $4,000+ for a new one.
- Worn cutting edges – easy to replace, but if the bolt holes are elongated or stripped, the moldboard might need repair. Count the bolts (standard is 18 on a 695). If some are missing, that's a red flag.
- Circle backlash – grab the circle and try to rock it side to side. More than 1/4 inch of play means the gear segments or the pinion are worn. Rebuilding the circle can run $3,000–$5,000. I learned that lesson the hard way after a 685 grader we bought at auction needed a full circle rebuild within 200 hours.
Take a flashlight and look at the circle teeth from underneath. If they're chipped or have a “hook” pattern, the machine was probably used in rocky conditions without proper lubrication. Pass on that machine unless the price accounts for a major rebuild.
Step 5: Request Maintenance Records and Run a Dealer VIN Check
This step sounds obvious, but you'd be surprised how many buyers skip it. “It's a Leeboy, they're built tough” – I've heard that line before. But even the best-built machine needs regular care.
Ask for service records going back at least three years. Key things to verify:
- Engine oil changes every 250 hours (using CJ-4 or CK-4 oil).
- Hydraulic filter changes every 500 hours.
- Final drive gear oil changes every 1,000 hours.
- Any major component replacements (transmission, torque converter, etc.).
If the seller says “records were lost” or “we serviced it regularly but didn't keep logs,” be skeptical. I can usually pull the machine's history through a Leeboy dealer VIN check. In 2022, we ran a VIN check on a 685 grader and found it had been in a rollover accident—the frame was stressed, but it had been painted over. That saved us from a $70,000 mistake.
If you're buying from a private seller, ask for the dealer it was purchased from. A quick call to that dealer (with the VIN) can confirm service history.
Common Mistakes and What to Watch Out For
- Don't assume “low hours” means low wear. I've seen a 695 motor grader with 3,000 hours that was abused harder than one with 6,000 hours that was well-maintained. Hours are a data point, not a guarantee.
- Beware of “just rebuilt” engines without a receipt. In one case, a seller claimed a new engine, but the rebuild turned out to be a swap with a salvaged unit. We found out when the serial number didn't match the Leeboy spec sheet.
- Don't let the excitement of a good deal rush you. If you're on the fence about a machine, walk away. There's always another “leeboy 685 grader for sale” around the corner.
Looking back, I should have trusted my gut on that first deal that went wrong. At the time, I thought the price was too good to pass up. But given what I knew then about the seller's vague service history, my decision was reasonable—just not thorough enough. Now I use this checklist every time.
Bonus Quick Quiz – Are you smarter than a 5th grader?
1. What does a motor grader's circle assembly do?
2. True or false: The Leeboy 695 motor grader uses a Cummins engine.
3. If a grader's blade drifts more than 2 inches in 5 minutes, what does that indicate?
(Answers: 1. Rotates the blade blizer; 2. True; 3. Hydraulic cylinder bypass.)
If you got all three right, you're definitely smarter than a 5th grader—and you're ready to buy a Leeboy. If not, print this checklist and bring it to your next inspection.
